Pacific crossing to Hiva Oa

4th May 2009

09.48 S 139.01 W

After leaving Galapagos without a breath of wind, it took 21 days to cover the 3170 miles to Fatu Hiva, in the French Marquises. We had checked the weather prior to departure and knew we would find some wind after motoring for a couple of hours. In fact we had wind all the way, mostly between 15 and 20 knots, which was very lucky. We did hit one patch of ‘weather’ and had a horrible night of squalls between 40 and 45 knots accompanied by thunder and lightning. Andy stayed on watch for most of the night, handing over to me only when the worst had passed, which was very considerate but frankly, staying below was like being inside a washing machine so there was no rest to be had that night. The weather system stayed with us for a couple more days but the squalls gradually diminished and the sea settled, and soon we were back to normal with no ill effects.

We trailed a fishing line for most of the passage and, after losing 5 lures, we managed to catch one small fish! Yes, in 3000 miles we only managed one! Good job we had loads of corned beef on board. We did get one other small but tasty treat. Each morning we would find flying fish on deck, mostly they were tiny but one was big enough to eat (well, big enough for one very small person anyway) so Andy grilled it for breakfast. It was delicious but, sadly, barely a mouthful.
We kept in touch with our friends on Kachina and Happy Spirit throughout the passage, using the SSB radio. I looked forward to our chats, twice a day, even though there was little to report, and it was good to know that someone out there knew exactly where we were and would be there if needs be. It was also really nice to get a birthday greeting from my son, Tim, via Happy Spirit’s email.

We decided to make our first stop at Fatu Hiva which was a great choice. It was the most spectacular landfall imaginable, with huge, naturally sculptured rocks lining the anchorage. The bay used to be known as ‘The bay of penises’ but missionaries changed the name to ‘The bay of virgins’, that didn’t change the appearance of the rocks though!

There are 2 small villages on the island joined by one road, and only a few hundred people. The rest of the island is mountainous and inaccessible. The houses are mostly of the prefabricated type, similar to ‘Park Homes’ with others are breeze block, so it is quite modern despite being so remote. I guess that is the French influence. There is one small shop, about 4m sq, where they sell basic provisions and a van brings baguettes from the other village each day. The church and the football field are the focal points of village life, both in use every day, and there is a village hall where people can get together. They were rehearsing traditional songs and dances for an upcoming festival during our stay.

It was a fun stop as we had no local money but were able to trade with the islanders who were more than happy to take us into their homes to show us their wares. We exchanged an old mooring line and a pair of sun glasses for a ‘tiki’ a traditional wood carving. We also got a huge supply of citrus fruits for some pencils and note books. Wine and rum are also popular trade items as alcohol is frowned upon in the village and not available, except from visiting cruisers. Certain of the men folk like to visit the boats at the weekend and share a beer!

We did a couple of hikes up the mountain, one to the waterfall where we bathed in fresh mountain water and I got nipped by a fresh water shrimp! The other was up to the top of the hill on the way to the other village. It was very hot and steep but part way up there was a natural spring with a shrine built around it. We filled the water bottle with the best tasting water you could imagine and gave our thanks. Nearby mangos and papayas were growing wild so our bag was quite heavy on the way back.

Our stay was all too short as Fatu Hiva is not a port of entry so we have sailed up to Hiva Oa to check in and get in touch with the world again, stopping first at Tahuata where manta rays swim in large groups to feed. I have also been able to visit a dentist here as I have been suffering toothache for the past few days. I had an x ray, an anaesthetic and a temporary filling for free! An unbelievable service on such a small island, trouble is I have to get to Tahiti within the next month to complete the treatment. That will keep us moving.