Margarita and Cubagua

12th September 2008

10.56 N 063.49 W

After Los Testigos we went on to Margarita where we could check in to Venezuela. It was quite a contrast from Los Testigos with hundreds of boats at anchor in the large bay at Porlamar and many more tourists enjoying the beach and its restaurants. Pirogues, jet skis and power boats raced by, caught up in the excitement of resort life. As we arrived on a Friday we had to wait until Monday before we could complete the formalities and so we settled reluctantly at anchor. In no time at all we realised that we had several friends already in the anchorage and it was a real treat to catch up with them – particularly Andy’s friend Bruce from RPhurst, with whom he had sailed 10 years ago in Malaysia.

The main benefit of staying in Margarita is the shopping, you can buy anything you need and the prices are good. It was a good chance to stock up on fresh produce, meat and beer for the next part of the journey.

From Margarita we did the short hop to Cubagua. It was a beautiful downwind sail with the Jib poled out. The lighthouse flashed as we rounded the northern point of the island and made our way down the coast to the anchorage where three French boats already sat in front of the small, quiet fishing village. Passing fishing boats waved cheerily welcoming us to the island. In the morning, we snorkelled on a wrecked car ferry, which lies on a shoal, less than half a mile from the lighthouse. The clear water allowed us to see down to about 40 feet, our vision clouded only by the thousands of fry dancing as one beneath us. The ferry was wrecked in the 70s and the rusty, steel bones of its carcass still jut from the water whilst its rotting innards lie below. One can make out the winches and capstans; gas cylinders and trolleys. Huge numbers of fish inhabit the wreck and it would have been a very nice dive site. It is said that cars can still be seen in the hold but we didn’t get down that far and doubt that any bodywork has survived this long in the salt water.