The Kingdom of Tonga

Tonga is made up of 171 islands, 36 inhabited, divided into four groups; The Niuas, Vava’u, Ha’apai and Tongatapu. Tonga is outstandingly beautiful and is very friendly. The population largely subsist on fish, coconuts and whatever they can grow. There are more Tongans in New Zealand than in Tonga and the people at home rely on the money that is sent back.

Tonga lies on the edge of a rim of volcanoes and the soil on the larger islands is rich from ancient deposits of volcanic ash. There are still towering volcanoes on the western side of Tonga and in Ha’apai, Tofua, where Captain Bligh was cast adrift, is still smouldering. There has been other recent volcanic activity at other sites in the Ha’apai area.

Tonga is an absolute monarchy and the King is revered. Tonga is mostly run on a feudal system with each family being allotted 2 plots of land, one on which to live and one for growing food. All the land is owned by the king and no foreigner can buy land, although land can be leased for up to 50 years. This has prevented development of resorts and so Tonga is unspoilt. Sadly it also means that local development has been inhibited and many families have no access to schools or medical services. The doctors and teachers are in New Zealand!

The Niuas

17^th September 2009

15.56 S 173.46 W

We had a pleasant sail down in 15 to 20 knots of wind which is ideal. Despite not yet being at 180 degrees we crossed the International Date Line on this passage and so lost a day; we are now 12 hours in front of UK, instead of 12 hours behind!

Niuatoputapu (very sacred coconut) is one of the three volcanic islands which form The Niua group which are the most northern islands of Tonga. It has a population of 1010 and 14 churches. Living here is traditional and most homes, fales, have no electricity. Cooking is done on open fires or in earth ovens and most of the food is grown on the island, although they do import some basics such as flour, sugar and rice. Back in May their supply ship sank so they are now short of supplies and with no replacement ship, there is little hope of a delivery in the near future. Many cruisers have brought flour or rice with them to help out and the local people trade their fruit for items that they need. They will not starve; there is a good variety of fruit and veg growing and plenty of fish to catch. The customs man said he thinks it is a really good thing that they have to return to the coconut!

I read in a guide book that communication with the outside world was by Morse code as recently as 1999!!! However there is now a huge satellite dish in the main town of Hihifo and the local High School has a computer which is linked to the internet, I expect the Government buildings are also online.

Shortly after arriving in Niuatoputapu the officials came out to the boat to complete the formalities. After that we were invited to the home of Se’a, a local lady, for a pig roast. She does this every Friday for cruisers. 2 young pigs were cooked on a spit over an open fire and served with breadfruit, taro and cassava. We had a lovely evening in the company of her family and some fellow boaties. When darkness fell they brought out a fluorescent tube and fired up a generator to give us light.

On Sunday Se’a put on a picnic for us. Tongan religion does not allow them to work on Sundays so it is a good time for families to get together and Se’a’s family chooses to share it with cruisers too. We met on an outlying ‘motu’ and Se’a brought tuna cooked in coconut cream in a taro leaf, which was delicious, and the usual breadfruit and cassava. We cruisers each brought our own dishes to share and turned it into a pot luck. The vegetable dishes we took went down very well and the children loved the cookies. Unfortunately the rain came and sent us all running home early.

Wild pigs and chickens roam freely on the island and can be seen foraging on the exposed coral at low tide, alongside horses, which are also here in numbers. The pigs eat anything and many of the houses are surrounded by makeshift fences to keep them away from their plants and food stores. The plantations, where most of the food is grown, lie behind the villages on higher ground. We had a pleasant hike up into the hills and talked to some of the men working in the fields. One of the crops being tended was tapioca, which I don’t think I have seen growing before.

After a few days we were ready to move south to the next group of islands. As we left the harbour and headed out to sea we spotted whale spouts in front of us. There were 2 humpback whales travelling slowly just ahead. As we watched, a third one swam past us close to the boat on the port side and then a couple of others, a short distance off to starboard. We were mesmerized as one, then another breached and yet another spy hopped behind us. (That is when they come out of the water vertically and ‘stand’ on their tail) It was so absorbing we went a bit too far west and had to pay for it later!

Vava’u

25^th September 2009

18.39 S 173.58 W

The sail down to Vava’u was a bit frustrating. The wind had more south in than we would have liked and we were gradually pushed further westwards. It was fairly comfortable sailing in 10 to 20 knots. As we neared the islands we had to tack to make our course and our day sail turned to night. We should have been in by sundown but instead we were discussing whether or not it would be safe to enter the island group in the dark or better to heave to until morning. After studying the chart carefully we superimposed the radar onto the chart plotter and headed in to an easy looking anchorage. We approached the wide open bay with great caution and finally anchored at 3am. It was a little tense and we were very tired but we would not have missed those whales for the world.

Vava’u is made up of 60, sparsely inhabited islands over an area of 17 sq miles. The waterways within the group are protected on all sides by the outer islands and reef, and so the sea is flat and sailing is idyllic. It is possible to sail in even the lightest of winds and we would often ghost along at 1 or 2 knots. In the centre is an immense, landlocked harbour where the main town of Neiafu, with its lively market and restaurants, lies.

The distances from one island to the next were small so when a friend called on the VHF and asked us to come over for a barbeque or a pot luck curry we could up anchor and sail over, maybe stopping for a snorkel on the way. It was great fun. Every few days we popped back to town, or an anchorage near town to get fresh supplies.

Humpback whales come to Tonga to breed and calf at this time of year so we frequently saw them as we sailed around. On one occasion we watched a mother and her calf swimming around our anchorage for about an hour and when we went diving on another day we could hear the song of a distant whale in the water.

The other creatures of note have been the flying foxes. They are here in their hundreds and we saw them hanging in trees during the day and flying out to forage at night. They have cute little foxy faces and are bigger than I expected, probably about a 30 inch (or 75cm) wingspan.

‘Chinook Tours’ took a group of friends out to Mariners Cave, accessible only by taking a huge leap of faith. It involved diving down a couple of meters and swimming through an opening in the rock face into the cave. The cave is only 2 or 3 meters in but is not visible from the surface. We motored back and forth a few times before deciding we had the right spot. Andy was the first one through and we all waited nervously for a signal that it was safe to go in. I valiantly volunteered for the job of boat watch as it was too deep to anchor, so sadly missed my opportunity to go in.........(I’m not a coward, honestly!)

Ha’apai

2^nd November 2009

19 51 S 174 24 W

After one false start when the weather defeated us we finally made it to Ha’apai with a comfortable beat into 10 to 15 knots of wind.

These islands are wonderful, mostly uninhabited and cruiser free. We saw only a few birds and hundreds of crabs. The islands are small enough to walk around in an afternoon at most and we went ashore most days to walk the beaches and search for treasure. We have collected so many shells that we have to be a bit more discerning now and only take grade ‘A’ shells. We are still searching for the perfect Cowry; it must be out there somewhere.

The reefs in the area make navigation a bit tricky but are great for snorkelling. The water is much colder down here – we are nearly out of the tropics – and we had to wear wet suits but it was worth it. The water is crystal clear and we saw a lion fish the other day. On one of our walks we came across a school of about 20 or more sharks in the shallows, about a meter from where we stood. We decided not to bother snorkelling there!

We only wish we had left more time for these islands, they are truly special and we hope to come back and give them a bit more time.

We stopped briefly in Nuku’alofa, Tonga Tapu to fuel up and restock for the trip to New Zealand. With cyclone season fast approaching we really had to get moving and could not put it off any longer!

Samoa

28th August 2009

13.49 S 171.45 W

We took 4 days to get to Western Samoa from Suwarrow. With the wind over 30 knots for most of the way and often over 40 knots we could have got there in 3 days but decided to keep it as gentle as we could. For a couple of days we used only the stay sail and on the final approach we were making over 4 knots with no sails at all.

We had heard on the radio that a ship had gone aground outside Apia Harbour in the strong winds and as we approached the reef at the entrance to the harbour we could see the container ship lying aground, held from further grief only by a small tug boat. Behind the ship a much smaller fishing boat also lay on the reef. Seeing these sorry vessels helped to keep our minds focused on making our own entrance safe.

Once inside the entrance a pilot boat came to escort us into the marina where we had to wait on board for the various officials to come and clear us into Samoa. This was our first visit to a marina since leaving Trinidad and so it was quite a novelty, had there been an option to anchor we would have taken it but we enjoyed having endless hot water and electricity. We also enjoyed the social aspect of marina living, there was always someone to talk to. The downside of course is that, having lived in splendid isolation, at anchor, for so long it was difficult at first to do anything other than talk to everyone! The first few days passed in a whirl of social activity and new friendships were made.

Samoa is beautiful and is the last place on earth to see the sun set. Travellers from Australia or New Zealand arrive here the day before they left home!!!! The people are extremely laid back and friendly and it was an easy place to be. The prices were cheaper than in French Polynesia and so we were able to go out and do things. (In fact it was so cheap that it became expensive!!!) We arrived during the Teaila Festival so there were a lot of competitions and games going on. We watched the finish of the long boat race. The heavy boats have about 50 people in them, including a drummer to keep the rhythm. At the end of a 30 minute race two boats came in neck and neck.

The same day we also saw the Miss Samoa parade, which was like a carnival with each contestant on her own decorated float and we saw some traditional Samoan music and dance in the evening. It was all very entertaining. The festival coincided with an international rugby tournament and a crowd of us went to the under 19’s final between Samoa and Fiji. It was a much more physical game than we expected and there is clearly some talent awaiting the senior teams. Fiji’s victory was well deserved despite a good fight from Samoa. Some beer was taken on the way home!!

The most interesting event of our stay was the change over from driving on the right to the left! On the morning of 7th September at 6.00am, sirens blared for about 10 minutes to mark the beginning of the changeover. The road through town was lined with spectators (as many as for the Miss Samoa parade) and it seemed that every car on the island was out, all tooting their horns and waving. On every corner policemen stood, backed up by Red Cross volunteers with stretchers at the ready. Camera crews waited at the busiest junctions to capture the event. Were they hoping for an accident? The main problem seems to have been for the buses, whose doors were now on the wrong side. They were not allowed to pick anyone up until the doors were changed, but the government grants to pay for this were slow in coming. It seems that the buses went on strike, leaving people stranded, but slowly they are being altered and reappearing on the street. The majority of the cars here are already right hand drive and taxi drivers have said that the change was no problem, although we noticed on the quieter roads that some people were apt to forget which side they were meant to be.

We hiked up to see Robert Louis Stevenson’s Museum and his grave on top of a hill. RLS lived here for the last few years of his life, having hated his time in Bournemouth where the climate was not so favourable to his constitution! The long walk to the top took about three hours, from the marina, and the heat and humidity was almost unbearable, but once we got off the road and into the rain forest it became sheltered and cool. The view from the hilltop was lovely and well worth the walk. Fortunately, as we were trudging back down the road on our way home, a lady in a pickup truck stopped and offered us a lift. I was in the back before she finished her sentence! Maybe a taxi to the beginning of the forest trail would have been the way to go.

A few days later 10 of us got together and hired a mini bus to tour the island. Away from the town the island is green and lush with the now familiar tropical fruits adorning the fields and gardens. Unlike Polynesia, where there is considerably more wealth, these fruits are being picked and eaten and it was good to see that nothing was going to waste – although that meant there was none for us to collect!! Samoans live in small communities with a handful of homes gathered around a large, open communal structure where people seemed to gather for many purposes, including watching TV. Some of the homes we saw were little more than a platform with a roof but everyone was smiling and as we drove by many people waved in greeting. Samoa has plenty of rain and there are waterfalls galore, several of which we saw on our tour. At one, young boys jumped for our entertainment and we were more than happy to reward them for their bravery. At one stop there was a cave, filled with fresh water, with an underwater passage to an adjacent cave. All the boys on the trip dived down and swam through the hole, something that did not appeal to me.

Our tour took us along the south coast, where resorts line the sea front. The sandy beaches look out across turquoise water to the reef beyond. We stopped at a beach cafe for lunch and enjoyed the views. The buildings along the front were mostly wooden and built on platforms supported by stilts. The atmosphere was friendly and welcoming, with a simple traditional feel.

Before moving on we took one final trip, out to the sliding rocks, a waterfall over a smooth rock face, about 15 meters high, where people can slide down into a deep pool. We spent a pleasant couple of hours there but, whilst the others showed their bravery on the hard slope, once again, I chickened out. I enjoyed the show from a relaxing rock pool, where the hot sun could not spoil my day.

It was a very busy few days in Apia, which we really enjoyed. Samoa has to be one of the friendliest places we have been. It was also one of the hottest places we have been for some time and, being in the shelter of the marina, we had no cooling breeze through the boat. It was nice to have the company of other cruisers in the marina but we will be glad to be back at anchor.

Suwarrow

14th August 2009

13.14 S 163.06 W

We were glad to arrive in Suwarrow after a tiring sail in heavy weather. Suwarrow is a low lying coral atoll miles from anywhere and is part of the northern group of the Cook Islands. The lagoon, within the reef, is several miles across and there are a number of small islands, or motu, the largest of which, Anchorage Island, is only0.4 sq miles. Suwarrow has been declared a National Park to maintain its pristine nature and is inhabited only by birds coconut crabs and the caretaker and his family who stay there for six months of the year, during the cruising season.

The anchorage was quite uncomfortable when we arrived, the high winds were making a big swell inside the lagoon and the boats were bouncing wildly. However it was still better than being out at sea and as it turned out, this stop was an unexpected delight in ways we could not have imagined.

The day after we arrived an American came to our boat with a wedding invitation. He and his lady had been searching for the right place to get married and saw Suwarrow, with its white sandy beaches and coconut palms, as the perfect place. The couple were very lucky to have a harpist in the anchorage to play during the ceremony, helping to make their day even more magical. They stood under a palm arch, on the beach with the sun setting behind them to make their vows. It was very romantic!!

Because Suwarrow is a National Park we had to get permission from John, the caretaker, to visit one of the other islands by dinghy. He keeps a close eye on all activity and as long as we are not interfering with nature in any way he will allow us to explore. If an area is sensitive for any reason then the visit will only be allowed if accompanied by him.

Huge numbers of birds breed on the outer islands and, with our friends; we got permission to go out to see them. There are tropic birds, red footed boobies, frigate birds and many others. There are nests everywhere, on the ground and in low trees and bushes. The huge, fluffy chicks look odd in the small nests and it is hard to imagine them as the offspring of their sleek, streamlined parents.

The reefs in Suwarrow are healthy, with a variety of colourful coral, some that we had never seen before. The reef fish are numerous, and with no real threat from mankind they are unconcerned by our presence, except for the fry in their coral nurseries, who disappeared in a flash as our shadows pass over them. There are also many sharks around the reefs, mainly black tips, and we saw at least one each time we went out. On the outer reef there are also grey sharks which we were less keen to meet. When he prepared fish for his family John, the caretaker, threw the guts into the sea behind his hut and the water boiled in a frenzy of activity as the sharks hustled to get their share of the treat. Scary!

Outside the reef, where the water plunges to hundreds of meters, we saw a couple of humpback whales feeding. They patrolled the reef for over an hour giving us a ringside view of water spouts, tails and fins and at one point an impressive breach!

At low tide we were able to walk out on the reef and it was fascinating to see miniature coral gardens in the rock pools with tiny versions of the reef fish living there.

On one of our trips to the islands Andy found a message in a bottle which was put in the water in Chile in May 2007 by a 14 year old girl. His eye was caught by a green ribbon tied around the letter; otherwise it might have remained undiscovered. He is about to write to her which should cause some excitement.

At one point there were 16 boats in Suwarrow and 10 nationalities, including the first Japanese boat ever to visit!! John invited us all for‘pot luck’ ashore to welcome everyone, he cooked fish and we all took a dish to share. Musicians were asked to bring their instruments in for a bit of entertainment. We expected to see a couple of guitars but there was a squeeze box, a flute, a tin whistle and about 8 guitars. What a night that turned into. Who would have thought that there would be such a gathering in the middle of the ocean, several days from the nearest land?

The wind got up the next day and the anchorage became dangerous so there was a bit of an exodus. Those of us who were not ready to go were allowed to move to a more sheltered spot. It wasn’t ideal among the coral heads but at least we were safe while we made our preparations. We left the day after and sailed to Samoa in winds mostly 30 to 40 knots, so it was another lively passage. The boats that waited it out for better weather had to wait a week. They ended up motoring most of the way to their next destination, with no wind, so we are glad we left when we did.

The Society Islands

3rd August 2009

16.31 S 151.45 W

Since our arrival in Tahiti and completion of the dental treatment we took time to explore the southern part of Tahiti Nui before moving on to some of the other Society Islands. All the islands

in this group are similar geographically. They are volcanic islands surrounded by reef. All are ruggedly beautiful with their steep mountains cloaked in rich shades of green and their reefs glowing in shades of turquoise and azure blue. Dotted around the reef are small islets, often palm fringed, known as ‘motu.’ (The photo is Bora Bora) Access to the islands is through passes in the reef which can sometimes be quite tricky.

After an extremely rolly ride to the south of Tahiti we anchored in a peaceful bay, protected by the surrounding reef. The swell outside the reef was huge but tucked up inside the water was so calm that Andy decided to do the jobs he had been putting off up the mast and tackle a few other problems to keep Chinook in shape. We were lucky to find an anchorage where we were able to get ashore. Most of the shore is privately owned and therefore not accessible, but by chance we stopped close to an abandoned surf school with a nice dock on which we could tie up the dinghy. A few meters up the road was a beautiful ornamental garden with ponds filled with water lilies in pink, white and blue, and many native trees and shrubs. A pretty waterfall sat at the back of the garden, providing a cool shady rest and beyond that a series of trails beckoned us to explore. We spent a pleasant day hiking up the trail, in the shade of a pine plantation as we climbed towards the rainforest which had re-established itself above the line of introduced trees. On the way back we scrambled down the river bank as far as we could before being forced back onto the trail when it became too steep to manage.

We moved further south to an inlet between Tahiti Nui and Tahiti Iti. Again the swell was huge that day and as we approached the reef pass we had difficulty seeing the entrance. The swell rose up in front of us masking our view and we watched as the huge waves tumbled over the reef, the breaking water flashing turquoise in the sunlight and the spray rising up to feed the clouds above. We nearly chickened out but, with hearts in our mouths, we crept forward and just when we were ready to give up the pass opened out before us, almost mocking our timidity!! On the way out the next day it seemed like a piece of cake!

After a brief stop back in Papeete we headed over to Moorea, a horrible rolly passage that was no fun at all!! Just as we rounded the northern end of the island a fish took our line, which we had trailed all the way across. At the time the boat was rolling from rail to rail and it was too dangerous to even think of bringing in a fish so we left it and resigned ourselves to loosing it. However, a couple of miles later as conditions eased we found the fish was still there and still fighting. Andy wrestled it for a while and eventually got the gaff hook ready to haul him in. As he began to lift the beast up the gaff hook, which had a solid wooden pole, snapped in two! We couldn’t believe it and were at a loss as to how to get this monster aboard. Eventually Andy managed it and was very proud to have caught a Wahoo around 1.5 meters long. After giving some away to two other boats we still had enough food for a couple of weeks!

Moorea, which was the backdrop for the film ‘South Pacific’, is the honeymoon isle and is very much a tourist resort, with hotels and gift shops lining its shore. However there are some great hikes into the hills, where the views were spectacular and these were the highlights for us. We hiked every other day and got to know our way round pretty well, we found several abandoned orchards and plantations where we picked our fill of papayas, bananas, citrus and pineapples. Moorea is the pineapple growing capital of French Polynesia and the air is filled with their sweet scent. We found an old field where the plants had become completely overgrown and were being strangled by bindweed and the fruits were being eaten by rats. Our legs were cut by the razor sharp leaves as we picked the fruits – the ones near the edges had all been taken and the remaining ones were only for the determined!

We had a lovely overnight sail to the next island, Huahine. The main village of Fare had a distinct Polynesian flavour and was like a breath of fresh air after the heavy French influence on the previous two islands. Despite that they still had Bastille Day celebrations on the day after we arrived .There was a procession in town with all the local clubs and sports teams represented and musicians and dancers dressed in traditional costumes.

Our guide book showed an archaeological site which looked worth a visit so we set out on foot to see it. It was much further than we thought and by the time we stumbled back home we must have walked at least 16 miles! Anyway, it was well worth it. The first marae (ancient sacred sites, same as pae pae on the previous islands) we came to had been restored and wooden huts built as they would have been in ancient times. From there we hiked up a trail into the hills, where vanilla was growing wild, to sites of several other marae. On the way back we left the road and walked down a track beside the beach. Two dogs joined us and stayed with us for about 7 miles, until we hid in the airport in an attempt to lose them! As you may have come to expect now, on the way we found some fruit. The land was cultivated in this area with many fruit trees and several small holdings where tomatoes and salad veg were growing. We came upon a field where cantaloupe melons had been recently harvested. All that was left were a few small, misshapen melons which the rats were eying hungrily. Well, what were we to do but rescue them from these vile creatures!

The next day our friends arrived in Fare and we all moved down the island to find a place to go hiking, we also stumbled upon the best snorkelling we have found in these islands. There were some lovely coral and many fish that we had never seen before, all in wonderfully exotic colours and patterns. Andy had his birthday here and we had a great day. After snorkelling we went to our friend’s boat for tea and birthday cake. Then in the evening we had a sundowner on the beach sitting around a bonfire followed by dinner and rum punch on Chinook.

The highlight however, was when we came across octopus mating in the shallows. We watched as the female moved slowly through the water, dragging the male behind her, all but one of his tentacles curled up tightly. Then they stopped and the male seemed to turn inside out as he changed colour to pale blue followed quickly by some strange dance in which they both changed colours as their bodies writhed together. It was an incredible display but I was told later that after laying her eggs the female would die. It seems very sad but what a way to go!!

We motored in no wind from Huahine to the next islands of Raiatea and Taha’a, the vanilla growing capital of Polynesia, where we only stopped for a night. By the next morning the weather was blowing stink and the anchorage no longer seemed good so we decided to move on. We had a feisty sail to Bora Bora in about 25 knots of wind using only a scrap of sail.

Bora Bora is to be seen to be believed. The crystal clear water of the vast lagoon reflects a myriad of blues which seem to change from moment to moment with the movement of the clouds across the sun. When seen from high up on the hills it is breathtaking. Photographs cannot do it justice. The islands only income, as far as we can see, is from tourism. Resorts line the shore of the mainland and some of the motus. Fortunately, as on the other islands, there are no big hotels, rather straw roofed cabins, often on stilts over the lagoon with their own swimming platform. I can’t imagine anyone arriving for their holiday and being disappointed!

We were very lucky to be here for the final night of a big dance festival. A ‘Dance Spectacular’ was held in an open arena in the main town of Vaitape, with 60 or 70 dancers performing traditional dances, telling ancient stories. Not being able to speak Polynesian meant we missed a lot of the story but the dancing was wonderful and yes, there were grass skirts aplenty! Hundreds of locals came into town for the show and set up seats and blankets outside the arena and there was a real carnival atmosphere. It was well worth our long hike over a very steep hill to get there, but fortunately we were able to hitch a ride back with a local school teacher.

Bora Bora is much drier than the other islands in the group and the hills more brown than green. There is little sign of agriculture and the only fruit trees we have seen are in gardens. Such a shame as the mangoes are back in season!!

Nuku Hiva to Tahiti

5th June 2009

17.31 S 149.31 W

Since Hiva Oa we have hopped to several anchorages, each with its own charm. On the island of Oa Pou we anchored in a small bay where the harsh, rugged landscape seemed almost close enough to touch and the sound of breaking waves reminded us of the fact even as we rested below. We spent a few days there in splendid isolation, exploring the coastline by dinghy. Visibility in the water was poor so snorkelling wasn’t much fun, but whilst Andy was out one day a large pod of dolphins came into the bay. I watched as they swam close to him on all sides and a youngster leapt out of the water, landing about a meter from his feet. I was so excited as I watched, knowing how he would enjoy such a close encounter, but he didn’t even seen them! He knew that they were there, he could hear their clicks and squeaks and he felt the splashes behind him but with the terrible visibility he couldn’t see anything. How sad is that? As we sailed away from the island we looked back in awe at the impressive view of the island with its soaring mountain spires and towers which are usually hidden in cloud.

We had to motor all the way to the next island, Nuku Hiva, as there was not a breath of wind. We stopped at the main town, Taiohae, where we had arranged to meet up with a group of friends and hire a car for an island tour. The following morning we set out and had a fabulous day enjoying spectacular views as we crossed the mountains. There are huge plantations of pine

trees, stretching across the mountain slopes where rain forest once dominated, which reminded our Kiwi friends of home. We stopped in a small village for lunch and explored a large archaeological site just outside the village. We scrambled over the remains of ‘pae pae’, the stone floors of an ancient sacred site, and saw the ‘Tikis’, carved human figures in wood or stone, standing guard over the ruins. Lots of banyan trees grow amongst the remains; apparently they are sacred trees in Polynesia.

Unfortunately when we got back to the boat we found someone had broken in, they had pulled off one of the hatch covers. Everything had been rifled and about 150 dvds, some money and a few other bits and pieces had been stolen. What a horrible way to end such a lovely day,

although, of course it could have been much worse. Anyway we went to the gendarme to report it the next day; they told us it was the first such incident in over two years. We left the anchorage straight after for Daniel’s Bay.

We stayed in Daniels Bay for over a week. It was so calm and peaceful, surrounded by mountain slopes on all sides. We watched as manta rays glided near the surface of the water each evening, their large fleshy white mouths agape as they filtered plankton and tiny jelly fish from the sea. Trouble was the water was so full of their food that visibility was poor and swimming and snorkelling were not much fun.

On shore there is an old wooden structure that used to be Daniel’s home. Apparently Daniel and his wife Antoinette lived there for 60 years and our friends remember their hospitality from a previous visit to the island 8 years ago. The house is empty now but the garden, now untended, is still teeming with fruit. Whilst there, we picked mango, grapefruit, lemons, chillies and coconuts which would otherwise have gone to waste. The mangoes looked very unappetising with their green skin being streaked with black goo, but they were the best we have ever tasted and they lasted nearly a month. We still have 3 jars of mango chutney in store! The lemons were bursting with flavour and I made some gorgeous lemon curd with those and we dried the chilli and coconut to supplement our stores.

Access to Daniel’s house is solely by boat, there are no roads, and this made the bay an ideal location for one of the ‘Survivor’ series on TV. The only other building there is the structure they built for the contestants, lucky them!

After a scramble across the rocks we were able to get round to the village in the next bay, also apparently inaccessible by road, where the handful of dwellings were surrounded by beautifully kept gardens with fruit trees interspersed with ornamental shrubs and flowers. From there we hiked, with a small group of friends, up to Vaipo waterfall, which, at 610m, is the third highest in the world. It took us 2 hours to get there and involved fording 3 rivers but it was well worth it. After we left the village we followed a rough track through the ‘Valley of Kings’ where we found the remains of an ancient royal settlement. The pae pae were overgrown and largely hidden from view by overgrown banyans and other trees and shrubs.

At the end of the walk we found ourselves in a deep canyon, the walls, only a couple of hundred meters apart, rose up 800 meters into the air. We had to crane our necks to see the top. The waterfall is tucked away in the corner and largely hidden by enormous boulders. In a last effort to get there we crossed yet another stream and climbed up the rocks, Andy stood chest deep in water to help me to get from one rock to the next otherwise I may not have made it, the gap was so wide. Once across we stripped off our outer clothes and plunged into the icy water (well it seemed icy to me!) and swam between the high walls to the base of the waterfall where we were pummelled by the violent shower. Beside the waterfall is a huge cavern, carved out over the years by the water, with a ledge at the bottom where we sat to admire the spectacular setting – until the shrimp starting nipping our bottoms in an effort to remove us from their home!
We had a small picnic whilst we warmed ourselves in the sunshine before setting off on the return journey. As we left the canyon we looked up one last time to see birds of paradise riding the thermals high above us. Perfect!

From Nuku Hiva we went to the Tuamotu island of Fakarava. The Tuamotus are a group of 78 islands, all but 2 being coral atolls, famous for the black pearls cultivated there. The low lying reefs are a huge contrast to the lush Marquises, having only short grass and a few palm trees. We were surprised to find a small supermarket and bakery in the village at Fakarava, but prices are high and I paid $5 US for 2 carrots and 2 tomatoes! The French bread however was a good buy. We moved away from the village, where a number of boats were congregated, and found a deserted spot about 15 miles down the reef where we could enjoy a bit of snorkelling. Ashore we walked across to the windward side of the reef – all of 500m! – and collected cowrie shells along the beach. We had just about got ourselves settled in to atoll life when my tooth flared up again and it was clear that we would have to get ourselves to Tahiti for my treatment. After a quick stop back at the village for more bread we headed out for the 2 day passage. We were lucky that the bad weather we had had over the previous few days had passed and conditions were good for sailing. So with out of date antibiotics from ships stores doing their work we had a fairly good trip down.

As we arrived here we were surprised to see a thick brown fug lying over a petrochemical plant and spreading across to the neighbouring island of Mo’orea. Not the image we expected. Ashore the busy roads and the bustle of the city came as a big shock. However, the main town, Pape’ete, has a certain charm and is very friendly and now we have got over the initial shock I am quite liking it. There appear to be many rich French here and the water front is alive with yachts, dinghies and other water sports, (including some kite surfing) the most popular clearly being the outrigger canoes which are a modern version of the traditional craft.

Anyhow, I have had 3 appointments at the dentist, each of about an hour, to get a root canal done and am feeling much better. The dentist was very nice, he had a great sense of humour and he made me laugh even as he prodded the nerve endings! He had top of the range equipment and was very thorough. I think I was very lucky to have him do the work. Thank Heavens it’s over!

The other good things about Tahiti are that we got our propane tanks filled and the Carrefour supermarket has everything you might need. Some things are even cheaper than in Panama! We paid the same price for a crate of French beer as we paid for the Bilbao in Panama!

We will be moving on tomorrow or the next day to explore the rest of Tahiti and the other Society Islands.

Pacific crossing to Hiva Oa

4th May 2009

09.48 S 139.01 W

After leaving Galapagos without a breath of wind, it took 21 days to cover the 3170 miles to Fatu Hiva, in the French Marquises. We had checked the weather prior to departure and knew we would find some wind after motoring for a couple of hours. In fact we had wind all the way, mostly between 15 and 20 knots, which was very lucky. We did hit one patch of ‘weather’ and had a horrible night of squalls between 40 and 45 knots accompanied by thunder and lightning. Andy stayed on watch for most of the night, handing over to me only when the worst had passed, which was very considerate but frankly, staying below was like being inside a washing machine so there was no rest to be had that night. The weather system stayed with us for a couple more days but the squalls gradually diminished and the sea settled, and soon we were back to normal with no ill effects.

We trailed a fishing line for most of the passage and, after losing 5 lures, we managed to catch one small fish! Yes, in 3000 miles we only managed one! Good job we had loads of corned beef on board. We did get one other small but tasty treat. Each morning we would find flying fish on deck, mostly they were tiny but one was big enough to eat (well, big enough for one very small person anyway) so Andy grilled it for breakfast. It was delicious but, sadly, barely a mouthful.
We kept in touch with our friends on Kachina and Happy Spirit throughout the passage, using the SSB radio. I looked forward to our chats, twice a day, even though there was little to report, and it was good to know that someone out there knew exactly where we were and would be there if needs be. It was also really nice to get a birthday greeting from my son, Tim, via Happy Spirit’s email.

We decided to make our first stop at Fatu Hiva which was a great choice. It was the most spectacular landfall imaginable, with huge, naturally sculptured rocks lining the anchorage. The bay used to be known as ‘The bay of penises’ but missionaries changed the name to ‘The bay of virgins’, that didn’t change the appearance of the rocks though!

There are 2 small villages on the island joined by one road, and only a few hundred people. The rest of the island is mountainous and inaccessible. The houses are mostly of the prefabricated type, similar to ‘Park Homes’ with others are breeze block, so it is quite modern despite being so remote. I guess that is the French influence. There is one small shop, about 4m sq, where they sell basic provisions and a van brings baguettes from the other village each day. The church and the football field are the focal points of village life, both in use every day, and there is a village hall where people can get together. They were rehearsing traditional songs and dances for an upcoming festival during our stay.

It was a fun stop as we had no local money but were able to trade with the islanders who were more than happy to take us into their homes to show us their wares. We exchanged an old mooring line and a pair of sun glasses for a ‘tiki’ a traditional wood carving. We also got a huge supply of citrus fruits for some pencils and note books. Wine and rum are also popular trade items as alcohol is frowned upon in the village and not available, except from visiting cruisers. Certain of the men folk like to visit the boats at the weekend and share a beer!

We did a couple of hikes up the mountain, one to the waterfall where we bathed in fresh mountain water and I got nipped by a fresh water shrimp! The other was up to the top of the hill on the way to the other village. It was very hot and steep but part way up there was a natural spring with a shrine built around it. We filled the water bottle with the best tasting water you could imagine and gave our thanks. Nearby mangos and papayas were growing wild so our bag was quite heavy on the way back.

Our stay was all too short as Fatu Hiva is not a port of entry so we have sailed up to Hiva Oa to check in and get in touch with the world again, stopping first at Tahuata where manta rays swim in large groups to feed. I have also been able to visit a dentist here as I have been suffering toothache for the past few days. I had an x ray, an anaesthetic and a temporary filling for free! An unbelievable service on such a small island, trouble is I have to get to Tahiti within the next month to complete the treatment. That will keep us moving.

Galapagos

13th March 2009

00.53 S 089.36 W

The trip to Galapagos took 7 days and was fairly uneventful, apart from crossing the equator of course, when we broke the rules and had a can of beer with which to toast Neptune! We had mostly light winds, although we had one day with up to 30 knots, and the last day we had 0 knots and had to motor. For me the surprising thing was the cold nights. How come that as we are sailing close to the equator the nights are feeling colder?

We saw a few dolphins on the way and a pod of 3 whales close enough for us to hear the blow from their spouts! We arrived at San Cristobal, one of the Galapagos Islands, on Friday. It was fabulous coming down the coast. The island is volcanic and we could see several craters of various sizes. The land looked pristine and there was no sign of human habitation until we arrived close to the town and anchorage at Wreck Bay. We were pleasantly surprised when we arrived by the very warm, friendly atmosphere and the quirkiness of the buildings, most of which are unfinished, we think because they have to pay tax once work is complete. Despite Galapagos having a huge tourist industry there is no sign of large resorts or hotels and the anchorage is largely occupied by fishing boats with a small number of yachts and tourist boats. The regulations for yachts are strict, we cannot go to any other anchorages and we are only allowed to stay for 3 weeks, probably a good thing or no one would leave!

One of the first things we noticed, as we looked for space to anchor, was the seals sunning themselves from some of the other boats. On some of the fishing boats there were possibly a dozen or so! And one of the yachts had 2 in residence on their swimming platform. Once we were set we were able to watch as some of them played in the water beside the boat. They are as agile as dolphins as they dive and leap out of the water and their speed is unbelievable.

We did an island tour on the first day. After driving almost the length of the island and walking around the reservoir, a volcanic structure which provides most of the island’s water, we visited the Giant Tortoise Sanctuary where they have a captive breeding programme to try to ensure the survival of this dying species, for which the Galapagos are named. The young tortoises are kept in pens to protect them from the feral cats, dogs and rats who find them to be a tasty treat. The larger ones roam freely on the surrounding land but tend to keep close to the ponds provided by the sanctuary, where they can drink and find shade. Some of them are huge and grow up to 90 kilos! They are amazing creatures and, it seems, a little grumpy. We witnessed one or two incidents of tortoise bullying, where the big boys threw their weight around and moved others on with much clashing of shells.

We went on to see the marine iguanas down on the coast and on the nearby beach we found young sea lions playing in the shallows. This beach is about 3 miles from town so we have been back a couple of times, in the early evening, to swim and snorkel, usually with only a couple of other people around. The young sea lions seem to enjoy coming out to play and swim around, nipping our fins and performing their aquabatics within touching distance! Priceless!! Fortunately the big ones keep well away – otherwise I think we would have to! As if that isn’t enough the bay is also home to turtles and we have seen up to 20 in there at one time, they come in all sizes with deep shells up to about 4ft long. They seem unconcerned by our presence and carry on as though we were not there. I expect we will walk out there a few more times before we are done.

We have been hiking up the volcanic paths, along the coast, to see the birdlife, particularly the Blue Footed Boobies who can be found on the rocks, usually in pairs. Their feet are a beautiful shade of light blue and very distinctive. We also went on a dive at kicker rock hoping to see the hammer head sharks but sadly visibility was poor and we were disappointed. A second dive at Isla Lobos had us back in the water with the seals and it was fun as they were attracted in large numbers to play in our air bubbles. There were also marine iguanas under the water feeding on the grassy rocks.

Galapagos has been a wonderful stop but, unfortunately we won’t be visiting the other islands in the group as we would need to buy a special permit, I expect we will sail close by on our way out though and see as much as we can from the sea.

Our next passage is 3200 miles to French Polynesia and we expect to be at sea for at least 3 weeks, maybe more as the winds will probably be light. We are looking forward to it, but we still have another few days here to enjoy before then!