4th March 2011
33 52 S 151 10 E
Before we left Brisbane we got to explore Moreton Bay whilst we waited for a repair on our outboard, which took three weeks in the end! What a lovely bay it is, though very shallow in places and very open at the Brisbane end with few anchorages protected all round. As the wind changed so we would have to move to another spot. It meant we had to keep a keen eye on the weather and also that we got to see more of the area. In one of the bays we crept as close as we could into the shallows (only about 6 inches of water under us at low tide) and watched the wading birds at sunset from very close quarters.
With the outboard once more on board we headed south through the bay, negotiating narrow, shallow channels as we went. It was so tranquil with many places to tuck in and get lost for a few days if only we had a shallow draught boat! At one point in the channel there is less than a meter of water at low tide so we had to time the trip carefully and we went through with great concentration. It was at this point that we were attacked by a bunch of bitey flies, hell bent on distracting us from our course. The little b****** don’t half give a nasty nip.
At the south end of Moreton Bay, on the Gold Coast, the water deepens and opens up for water skiers, Para gliders and jet skis. The backdrop changes from bird filled trees to a high rise jumble. There is a definite holiday buzz in the air.
We enjoyed sailing down the coast, with land always in sight. We haven’t been doing too much of that lately. It meant that when the weather threatened to go bad on us we could easily duck in to a safe harbour, which we did at Port Stephens.
Port Stephens is a huge harbour, larger in area than Sydney, though not used commercially. There is no end to the bays and creeks which can be explored. Holiday resorts and marinas dominate the bays near the harbour entrance but as we headed further in we found small hamlets with moored boats lining their shores. Much of the area is National Park and we were able to get off the boat and explore the bush near the villages. Though eucalyptus trees are the dominant species in the bush, very few are right for the koalas to eat. In one area conservationists have planted the favoured trees and koalas can be spotted, but sadly not by us!
We did, however, have the pleasure of young dolphins frolicking around us in one of the bays. They were like puppies, leaping around with such energy and little coordination, bumping into each other at every turn. Their guardians swam sedately around the perimeter, looking on with indulgent pride.
From Port Stephens we hopped down to Pittwater in Broken Bay. Our first impression was of an overcrowded resort area with few redeeming features. Thousands of yachts are bunched in every available space or crammed into marinas. Ferries and fishing boats create almost constant wake keeping everyone rolling uncomfortably. We didn’t give it a chance and headed out to Cowan Creek, part of the same harbour and only a stone’s throw away. What a contrast. The creek meanders through national park, having cut pathways between the sandstone hills. Eucalyptus trees have found footholds in every crevice and form a dense and impenetrable carpet, homes for countless birds. The kookaburras, who laugh all day long, are interrupted by the almost constant squawking of rainbow lorikeets. When the sun warms their backs the cicadas join in too. The whole scene is patrolled by Sea eagles awaiting the opportunity to swoop on their unsuspecting prey. It is an absolute joy to sit quietly in these surroundings, listening to birdsong.
We drifted from bay to bay for a week or so in splendid isolation, so far from civilisation that even the wind could not find us. And all this only 20 miles from Sydney!!
As our fresh supplies got low we decided we really should continue on our way. We set out on a good forecast only to find we had to motor all the way down to Sydney. Still, it was only about three hours away and we were excited to be going to such a great city.
Once we had entered the shelter of Jackson Harbour the sea flattened and the light breeze was enough to push us along. We turned off the motor and gently drifted towards Sydney. The harbour is vast with many bays filled with resorts, marinas and moored boats. We could see children playing on the sandy beaches and paddling in the blue water. The closer we got to Sydney the busier the waters became with ferries and tour boats rushing here and there, cameras flashing from their decks. And we even passed not one, but two America’s Cup Yachts!
As we slowly approached the city we were joined by crowded charter yachts, filled with people sharing our dream of sailing past the Opera House. We drank in every detail as we passed this famous landmark, and marvelled at the privilege of being there. The building is said to have drawn inspiration from snails, oranges segments and palm fronds, amongst other things, and these influences can be seen very clearly.
No sooner had we passed by than our attention was taken by the Harbour Bridge. Only 40 years older than the Opera House this structure is from another era. We craned our necks as we sailed beneath this colossal steel arched bridge with its 6 million hand driven rivets!
This was truly a day to remember!
